Fairbanks, Alaska – Wednesday thru Saturday, September 7 thru 10, 2011
Wednesday was a bit of a laid back day. We had some decisions to make, such as “Was it time to begin our journey back to Florida?” or “Are we going to the Arctic Circle and how?”.
We really liked where we were camped right next to the Chena River. It was peaceful and the sound of the water tumbling over the rocks in the river was very soothing. We had seen the aurora borealis here and wanted to see more, but it was time to get moving again.
We wanted to cross the Arctic Circle, but should we drive the Element, or take a tour? We had read all the dire warnings about having two full size spares, satellite phones, and the road would deteriorate in wet weather and so on. It would be a 180 mile drive one way which would reportedly take 7 hours each way. We didn’t want to try and drive 14 hours straight so we decided to go for a tour that was a drive up and fly back. So off we go in search of a cell phone signal.
But first, a stop by Fox, AK to the Silver Gulch Brewery, the northern most brewery in America with over 100 types of exotic and locally brewed beers. The population of Fox is 385 and we think they were all at the Silver Gulch. The beer was good and we sampled several of the local microbrews.
Next stop is Fairbanks and back to the Walmart campground. We called several tour companies to get prices and details. We were told, that only one company’s planes fly where we want to go so there was no need to shop around. In other words, “We’re it buddy!”. We bite the bullet and picked the tour we wanted only to be told they have to put us on standby as they didn’t have enough passengers to justify sending a plane to Coldfoot, AK to bring us back. So, back to square one. If they don’t call us back , we may have to bite the bullet and do the 14 hour drive.
Thursday begins with us deciding our fresh water system pump is getting worse and worse. First it had to be coaxed to run and now it won’t shut off which means it drains the battery plus runs the possibility of over heating. So now we have to turn the pump switch on and off every time we use it. We expect the pump may expire at any moment now.
Last week when we were in Fairbanks Frank inquired about a replacement pump and was told the one we needed was on order and should be on the next shipment, maybe. So he calls the only two places in town that sell RV parts and luckily one of them got in their shipment. It’s very pricy, we wonder if it has some gold parts in it. $305.05 – OUCH!!
We haven’t had an internet fix for 4-5 days now and we need to update the blog. McDonalds here we come. While we were there, the tour company called and said they had enough people to justify sending a plane to Coldfoot, were we still interested. We decide to let them do the driving. The van leaves at 5:30AM. Hmmmm! This is going to take a bit of adjustment as we’ve been sleeping in ‘til 8-9 AM.
After checking out some laundromats and picking up the pump, we head back to Big Guy for the night. We have to pack and get ready for the trip to the Arctic Circle and Coldfoot, AK. The alarm is set for 3:30AM.
Friday begins way too early. Neither one of us slept well, worrying that we would over sleep. Even the cats are groggy, but not so much that they can’t wolf down breakfast. In an hour we’re ready and headed to McDonalds for breakfast. EJ is saving the receipt to prove we were there at 4:40AM.
We arrive at the tour company’s office at 5:00AM, 15 minutes early. It turns out there is only one other couple going with us on the tour. Since the van will only be half full of people, the other half is stuffed with supplies for the Coldoot Camp. Notice how nice and clean the van is at this point. At 5:30 we’re off. First stop (7:15AM) is Joy, Alaska at the Wildwood General Store also known as the Arctic Circle Store. Free coffee and tea, plus all the t-shirts and sweatshirts you could want for a price. The proprietor is apparently very lonely and talks non-stop the whole time we’re there. The Checker cars were for hauling around all the children. At one time there were 23 children living here. Eighteen of them were adopted and five of them were “home grown”.
Signs of fall are definitely here. The road so far is not too bad. It is paved for the first 84 miles and mostly gravel for the next 100 miles and paved the last 75, so we will see how it goes.
The next stop is to inspect the Alaskan Pipeline up close. We have been following it all along the road and were able to get next to it here. Our guide had lots of good info about the construction and operation.
As we travel further we cross over the Yukon River. Notice the bridge surface is lumber. When Alyeska designed the bridge they forgot to consider the weight of the pipeline that is attached under the bridge. So, instead of a heavier more permanent surface, they had to use wood to compensate for the forgotten weight.
We stopped here for a visit to the Yukon River Camp and a close up look at the river itself.
Some more Dalton Highway (aka the Haul Road) pictures. The road was built to support construction of the pipeline. It is the only road into the northern interior and now more famous because of the show Ice Road Truckers.
After a walk on the spongy tundra, our guide convinces EJ to check out the permafrost layer underneath. This is an old arctic ground squirrel hole with about 12 inches of r-e-a-l-l-y cold water and then solid ice.
We’re getting near the Arctic Circle.
We’re not allowed to approach the sign and accidently step over the line until all of the proper preparations have been made. That’s Aaron our tour guide making sure all is in order.
And finally, the moment arrives! Much fanfare, fun and certificates.
We have chocolate cake with “perma-frosting” to celebrate our crossing over.
Our destination and end of the driving portion of the tour, Coldfoot, Alaska. Remember the nice clean white van? The road was a bit rough and wet, but we made it. Glad we didn’t drive it.
We check out the Gates of the Arctic National Park Visitor Center. Here is a colorful view looking out the Centers window.
As our departure time approached we went in search of our plane and pilot. We found the plane but couldn’t find the pilot. Turns out he had gone for a quick meal. Here’s our ride back to Fairbanks and a happy passenger.
The magic number N66 degrees 33 minutes (Arctic Circle) approaches as we fly south.
Unfortunately it was pretty cloudy and we had to fly above them most of the time. But every now and then you could see the fall colors.
A welcome sight, the runway approaches signifying the end of an exciting journey. The flight back was only one hour and the ride up took us around 11 hours. The tour was every thing we had hoped it would be and Frank gets to check one off of his bucket list. We were tired, happy travelers and now we don’t have to say this.
Today was spent recovering from yesterday. The sound of rain on the roof encouraged us to sleep later than normal, plus the lack of sleep from the night before didn’t help any either.
Frank replaced the fresh water pump and now we don’t have to constantly turn the power switch on and off.
We heard on the radio about a store giving away free bags full of cat food and toys and had to check that out.
All this activity wore out Frank and the Cats.
We caught up on the blog and tried to stay warm. It never got above 48 degrees today and it is still raining. Looks like the decision to head back to the lower 48 is going to happen any day now.
| BG Miles Today | 58 | BG Total Miles | 7244 |
| Eat Out total $ | 1146.08 | BG Total Fuel $ | 4004.44 |
| Entertainment total $ | 1387.63 | Total Camping $ | 1162.03 |
| E Miles Today | 80.73 | E Total Miles | 2721.88 |
| E Total Fuel $ | 557.67 | Day # of Trip | 99 to 102 |
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