Friday, July 29, 2011

Off to Valdez

Valdez, AK – Friday, July 29,2011

Up to another cool morning. Looks like good weather, still overcast, but no rain. The scenery on this part of the Richardson Highway is really beautiful. The clouds sort of hang in the mountains and everything is lush and green.

P1050306P1050307

P1050308P1050310

We stopped at Worthington Glacier State Park. We could see it coming down the road. The ranger there was a real character. She was a pretty tough cookie with lots of stories.  She told us all about Valdez and places to go. Looks like a good place to hang out hat for a few days.

P1050311P1050318

P1050320P1050321P1050322

The closer we got to the coast the more waterfalls we could see.

P1050323P1050324

P1050326

No obvious places to boondock in Valdez, so we went around to several RV parks. They were all about the same, side by side on a gravel lot. We decided on Bayview RV Park and paid up for a week.  Time to settle in and enjoy.

P1050327P1050328

P1050329

There are supposed to be lots of eagles that hang around the bay and not long after we were set up we saw a small black bear running through the marsh. We even had a surprise “treat” come through the campground.

P1050330

Decided to take a walk down to the harbor(Port Valdez) on Prince William Sound. The salmon are running and everyone is up for fishing. The cleaning stations were very busy and the seagulls had fresh pickings.

PICT0001PICT0003PICT0004PICT0002PICT0005

image

BG Miles Today

119

BG Total Miles

5880

Eat Out total $

497.13

BG Total Fuel $

3099.16

Entertainment total $

141.52

Total Camping $

688.17

E Miles Today

0

E Total Miles

1880

E Total Fuel $

387.19

Day # of Trip 59

Thursday, July 28, 2011

Nabesna

Glennallen, AK – Thursday, July 28, 2011

Rain and more rain. Took our time getting ready, hoping the rain would let up. We plan on taking the Element and going to drive Nabesna road into the Wrangall-St. Elias National Park & Preserve. It is supposed to have great views of the Wrangell mountain range and park. Several hiking trails are there too. Packed for the day and headed out. Still really cloudy. We stopped by the ranger station for information on the road conditions(unpaved all the 42 miles). They gave us a CD guided tour to play as we drove. Great idea and it was very informative. It’s a good thing we saw Mt Sanford yesterday, because we couldn’t see much today. The road started out Ok, but quickly turned to muddy potholes most of the way. We drove down 30 of the 42 miles and turned around when the water was rushing over the road. Still it was an interesting adventure.

We saw a beaver dam and went to investigate, but we never saw the beaver lodge. We also investigated the site of the last place you could homestead land in Alaska. Slana originally had 100 people claim land but in the end only 20 could endure the hardships to end up with the patent for their claims. The patents granted them permanent rights to the land.

P1050294P1050296

P1050298P1050299

P1050300P1050301

We left the park and headed back to get the RV and head south. It did clear up some as we got closer to Glennallen. We found a nice pullout back off of the road and were surprised to find three other RV’s already there. We parked and had a nice view overlooking the valley. Took a walk around and sat outside for awhile. Nice to see a break in the weather.

PICT0002PICT0003

image

BG Miles Today

78

BG Total Miles

5761

Eat Out total $

477.88

BG Total Fuel $

3099.16

Entertainment total $

141.52

Total Camping $

652.88

E Miles Today

65

E Total Miles

1880

E Total Fuel $

387.19

Day # of Trip 58

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Taking Care of Business Day

Slana, AK – Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Heading back south today. We will be going back through Tok to take care of stuff and then on toward Valdez. The road is pretty much the same condition as it was three days ago. This time we saw a moose out for a stroll. This was on one of the sections of road where they couldn’t make up their mind, dirt, asphalt . . .  dirt, asphalt.

P1050287 - Copy

We made it to Tok around 2pm and didn’t leave until around 6pm, but we accomplished a lot. Had to go by the bank to get a form for Frank’s retirement notarized, then to the Post Office to mail it. Car wash for the Element, fueled up both vehicles, had lunch and did some planning, grocery store, liquor store and dump station before we were on the road again. We had good road for awhile, but then it was back to the usual improved/unimproved conditions. We stopped at the Mentasta Roadhouse for a break. Found out the area was hit by a 7.9 earthquake in Nov 2002. They had pictures of the parking lot with a big crevasse thru it.  All better now.

P1050289

Still raining off and on and it is really cloudy. We looked at one area and finally realized that there was a snow covered mountain sticking out of some clouds. Turns out it was Mount Sanford (16,237 ft), one of the peaks in the Wrangell-St. Elias mountain range.

P1050290

P1050292

We stopped for the night at a roadside pullout close to the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve. A nice spot to relax and unwind. Oh, yeah, the dash air conditioning decided to quit today. Glad the temps aren’t like back home.

image

BG Miles Today

143

BG Total Miles

5683

Eat Out total $

477.88

BG Total Fuel $

3099.16

Entertainment total $

141.52

Total Camping $

652.88

E Miles Today

0

E Total Miles

1815

E Total Fuel $

387.19

Day # of Trip 57

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Day Off

Chicken, AK – Tuesday, July 26, 2011

After our adventure yesterday we took a down day working on this and that.  Paperwork, cleaning, little projects, etc. We took a walk around town and found a couple of interesting trails. Still overcast and soggy, but the sun did come out for a bit.

P1050285PICT0001

Don’t know where the day went, but it’s gone. Not much else to report for now.

image

BG Miles Today

0

BG Total Miles

5540

Eat Out total $

477.88

BG Total Fuel $

2984.93

Entertainment total $

141.52

Total Camping $

652.88

E Miles Today

0

E Total Miles

1815

E Total Fuel $

356.99

Day # of Trip 56

Monday, July 25, 2011

The Road Less Traveled

Chicken, AK – Monday, July 25,2011

Our plans for today are to go to Eagle, AK at the end of the Taylor Highway. We considered going to Dawson City, but thought we would try Eagle first to see how bad roads are. Bear in mind that even though the Alaskans call this a highway, it is still a dirt and gravel road.  We left BG in Chicken and headed out for the day in the Element.

The Alaska Department of Transportation has a great sense of humor as evidenced by the speed limit signs they put on the Taylor Highway.  Posted at 50 MPH, parts of your car would start falling off and your tires would only have a momentary acquaintance with the road surface if you tried to go that fast.

The road was pretty bad in spots and got better once we were past the Dawson City turn off. It was a gorgeous drive, running along the ridge of the mountain tops.

P1050257P1050263P1050266P1050269P1050261P1050262

And even though we were on the edge of civilization we still had pedestrians(caribou) to contend with that refused to use sidewalks.

P1050258P1050260

After 3 hours we finally reached Eagle. 

P1050273

P1050274PICT0001

We were pretty excited because this was a destination visited by Holland American bus tours and they even had a cruise boat that ran the Yukon River between there and Dawson City.  If they came here you know it had to be great.  It is a tight knit little community that consists of about 160 very self sufficient individuals and it had one store that closed at 5pm.  It was also the grocery store and filling station.  So what was Holland America coming to see?

As it turns out, 2 years ago there was an ice jam on the Yukon River.  When the ice jam broke, it released a  torrent of water that wiped out the riverfront and most of the tourist attractions.  Then last year, there were several major slides closing the highway for several months.  Holland America hasn’t visited since.  The ice jam also completely wiped out Eagle Village where the local indigenous people lived.

We did visit the local Ranger Station and they gave us a private tour of the fort.  Eagle is the site of Ft Egbert built in 1899.  It served two primary functions at that time.  To keep the peace and to provide sanctuary to the people that were ill prepared for the winters.

Eagle was on the path of the gold rush. Apparently all those miners were a pretty rough bunch and the Army had to step in to maintain law and order.

Later the fort was responsible for helping to develop and maintain a trail to Valdez so there would be a direct route to the gold fields that didn’t go through Canada.  After that, the same trail was used to establish a telegraph system to Valdez again bypassing dependence on Canada in relaying Army messages to and from Washington DC.

The buildings that remain also house an eclectic collection from the areas history. Gold panning/mining, mail delivery via sled dogs, vintage vehicles (which actually still run & are used once a year in a parade), fur trapping/trading and river travel. We spent almost 3 hours with this local ranger who had lots of stories. He even gave EJ gold panning lessons.

PICT0002PICT0003

PICT0004PICT0006

PICT0007

After our tour, we drove around the rest of town. Building codes are obviously not an issue here. Better watch that first step!!

P1050278

As we said before, the residents here are a hardy bunch. The road here is actually closed mid September and not open again until sometime in May.  They have to have enough of everything to get by. They still use sled dogs and there is a short air strip, but, basically they are on their own. Until the river freezes some use it as a way to get their supplies.

P1050279P1050281

It started to rain and it was 6pm, so we headed back down the road. Well, rain and dirt/gravel roads aren’t a great mix. The road was awful, even some of the good parts were now bad. The Element looked like we went off roading in a mud bog. Since we got home so late and were worn out, we decided to stay in Chicken another day to catch up. We won’t be going to Dawson City as the Top of the World Road will most likely be the same and more rain is predicted.

PICT0002PICT0003

image

BG Miles Today

0

BG Total Miles

5540

Eat Out total $

477.88

BG Total Fuel $

2984.93

Entertainment total $

141.52

Total Camping $

638.88

E Miles Today

200

E Total Miles

1815

E Total Fuel $

356.99

Day # of Trip 55