Swimming Upstream to Kenai

Old Walmart Parking Lot, Kenai, AK – July 24, 2014

We left Homer, with me driving Big Guy and EJ driving the Element. We were only going a short distance, to Ninilchik, so it wasn’t worth the effort to tow the car. We wanted to explore and EJ had promised me breakfast at Veronica’s.

A funny for you, frustrating for us, story is that EJ and I both remembered down to the same minute details that a small restaurant/coffee shop, Veronica’s, was located in Ninilchik. So we drove every road that we could find in Ninilchik and could never locate it. However the church we remembered was there and the coffee shop, as we both remembered, was supposed to be within walking distance. We found a church that we thought was the church we remembered, but there was no restaurant/coffee shop nearby. After we got back home, EJ pulled out the notes from our 2011 trip and found out we were looking in the wrong town. It was in Kenai, not Ninilchik. So if you every find us looking for something we swear is right here, just humor us, OK?

Well, at least we found the church (or what we thought was the church). We remembered that it was white and it had an onion on top. Wait a minute, that pretty much describes all the Russian Orthodox churches we’ve seen here.

We drove through the Ninilchik settlement. Some places survived, others didn’t

The local commercial boat basin was pretty busy. Fish boats were loading ice and this guy was discharging red water. I guess maybe that wasn’t all water. Fishing must be good.

While we were at the beach level we saw this helicopter playing around. Or maybe he wasn’t playing. It was very windy and he kept approaching this house getting really close before he would back off and repeat the process. For a while we thought he was just buzzing someone’s house, but when he finally landed we decided he was just fighting the wind.

We hooked up the Element and pointed Big Guy towards Soldotna. We had considered staying at Fred Meyers, but because of the RV crowds and craziness, we wanted other options. We had heard from a friend, Nancy O’bosky, that there was an abandoned Walmart in nearby Kenai. Now it’s not that we are cheap, frugal is the word I prefer, it’s just that when we stay in places like this it tends to avoid the tourist crowd.

When we arrive at Camp Abandoned Walmart there are about 5 RVs in this huge lot. We talk to one fellow who had parked his trailer under an overhanging roof and he said his trailer had been there a week and nobody had bothered him. Good enough for us.

Knowing that the upcoming weekend is the last weekend of Net fishing season for Alaska residents we expect a crowd. We carefully select our spot to ensure maximum elbow room and settle in. As you can see in this picture, the huge parking lot is practically empty.

The fellow in the white trailer had the right idea and parked under cover. While the fellow in the red trailer parked his in the rain next to the roof but parked his jeep where it was nice and dry. Why not park the trailer there too?

Even a tent camper was getting into the act.

Interestingly enough, the new Walmart right across the street, was packed with RV’s. That was fine with us.

Hanging Around Homer Part 2

Mariner Campground, Homer, AK – July 23, 2014

While in Homer we wanted to sign up for a trip to Seldovia. Why Seldovia you ask? It is reported to be one of the few remaining waterfront towns that is truly reminiscent of old Alaska. It is untouched by rental RVs and tourist busses. So naturally Frank was interested in immersing himself in this rare experience.

While Frank thought he was signing us up for a water taxi that just might encounter some wildlife along the way, he in fact signed us up for for a wildlife tour that just might deposit us in Seldovia if there was enough time. The brochure said 3 hours in Seldovia, we almost got 2 hours. Here’s why.

And we got to see some other stuff too.

The last two pictures above are of Elephant Rock. As you journey around the rock it appears that the elephant’s trunk rises up out of the water. And yes, it is the same rock.

Finally we pull into Seldovia and are informed that we’ll only have two hours, not three, to explore town and be back on the boat. Well, I guess we better get cracking. First we try to find all the publicly displayed chain saw wood carvings that Seldovia is known for. They have an annual contest and these are some of the entries. The detail is really remarkable.

The above is the symbol of the the Seldovia Village United Tribe.

The local Russian Orthodox church.

After hurrying around to see these we caught a bite of lunch at Amon’s Coffeehouse. They had no soup because they had given up on our boat arriving. So they didn’t finish making it.

Standing on the bridge watching salmon swim upstream. (They’re there, trust us!)

The end of our two hours was rapidly approaching and it was time to go. That’s our wildlife tour water taxi in the background.

Well we spent more time in Homer than we thought and enjoyed every minute of it. Mocha asks is it time to hit the road again?

Next stop is Soldotna. Hopefully the salmon run frenzy is starting to die down.

Hanging Around Homer Part 1

Mariner Campground, Homer, AK – July 21 through 22, 2014

The next morning we bided our time until a spot on the beach front row was vacated. Actually we had a couple to choose from, but we had to act quick because we had already waffled on one and someone else got it. So we swooped in and settled into this spot. We were even able to get a satellite signal!

It didn’t make much difference which one you got, they all had great views.

Plus we had our own show put on by this windsurfer,

an other beach goers passing by.

A visit to the Visitor center was in order and we got there just before closing time. However, we were able to pick up a few good tips from a very helpful ranger who just happened to own the building the local brewery was housed in. We also got his recommendation on the best brew they had. In addition they had a most excellent trail that led from the Visitor Center to the beach, called the Beluga Slough Trail. We just had to try that.

The Fresh Sourdough Café caught our attention and we had several meals there. The background story is this couple traveled the Alaska Highway in 1982 driving this bread truck. They peddled fresh baked bread along the way to make enough money to set up shop in Homer. 32 years later, it’s still in business. They are expensive ($17 for the special of the day hamburger), but the quality of food did not disappoint.

It was a nice walk from the RV and we got to see other curiosities along the way. Marine repair shop ya think?

Homer Spit. Sounds kinda crude doesn’t it? In this case, spit refers to a sliver of land that projects out into a body of water. In Homer’s case, it is tourist central. This is where 95% of the boat cruises and charters are to be found. Also it’s where all the “ticky-tacky” shops selling the same old tourist trinkets are located.

While EJ was wandering around she found these. We don’t know what they are so we’re just calling them ugly fish.

And Frank found a nice place to wait for EJ.

The next day we decided to revisit the Norman Lowell Gallery. We really enjoyed it last time we were here. An update on Norman. He has macular degeneration disease and had been declared legally blind by his doctor. However, he has enough vision left that he continues to paint using a new easel stand he designed that provides an enormous amount of light. The extra light lets him see well enough that he can continue pursuing his love of painting Alaska landscapes.

He also invites some very talented local artists to display their art in his studio.

Norman built this studio with his own funds and to this day charges no entry fee. Voluntary contributions are appreciated. After you see the amazing art in his gallery, you’ll have no qualms about making a donation to help keep the gallery in operation.

Nikolaevak. Sounds Russian doesn’t it? EJ found this in one of our guide books as a suggested drive. So we went. Sometimes we wonder if the people who write for the guide books ever actually make the drive themselves. Nikolaevak is located near the end of North Fork Rd. The last couple of miles is supposed to be on a gravel road. We never found the gravel road, but we did find Nikolaevak ( I really like spelling that name). It had an Russian Orthodox Church that was being renovated.

And a campground that wasn’t.

We also saw two young boys walking and carrying some soda pop and a bag of groceries, so there must be a small store nearby as well.

Back on the coast we explore another road that leads us to Anchor Point, North America’s Most westerly highway point.

It was at this point that we saw immature eagles on the beach vying with seagulls for salmon remains. The last guy strutted his stuff and acted real tough.

What was really hilarious was watching this group scurrying around hunched over following the eagles.

While in Homer we found Skyline Drive and thought we’d see where it went. There was a terrific view overlooking the Homer Spit and Kachemak Bay with the Kenai Mountains in the background.

Along this road was the Carl E. Wynn Nature Center. Of course by this time of day, the Nature Center was closed which meant we had the whole place to ourselves. We took advantage of a great hike through the woods and enjoyed the solitude.

Of course during our time here we visited the Homer Brewery (more than once). More fine beer sampling to add to our research. Time to get back to BG. Tomorrow we take our trip to Seldovia.