Monday, July 8, 2013

Busy Little Wheatland

Lewis Park County Campground, Wheatland, Wyoming – June 29 through July 8, 2013

Upon leaving Loveland Colorado we weren’t real sure where we wanted to go. Since we had put a major dent in the the budget due to air conditioning and gas pipe repairs, we even considered turning around and heading back to Frisco for the summer.

But we haven’t seen EJ’s big brother in years and as fragile and fickle as life is, we didn’t want to let any more time go by before we took care of that. So we decide to continue our journey to the northwest. We’ll just have to cut down on the number of Mocha Lattes we consume. Weather looks hot most places, but we decide to head to WY and the Grand Teton NP.

As we passed into Wyoming the landscape began to change from the mountains we had gotten so used to. Now its buttes and plateaus. (Remember you can click on any of the pictures to enlarge it and see more detail)

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We stopped at the Wyoming Visitor Center to gather more information to help us make our directional decisions We even got to find out more information about the elusive Marmot.

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We knew it was going to be warm, not as warm as Loveland, but still warm enough to be uncomfortable during the day.  So we focused our attention on going north and finding a low cost electric hookup so we could run our newly fixed AC to combat the heat. WWW.uscampgrounds.info indicated there was a county park in Wheatland,WY  that might just fit our requirements. We figured we could stay there a few days and continue on.

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And there was space for us. And shade. And a 50 amp connection. Life is Good!!

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The area is rich with history about the settlers that passed through going to Oregon, California, or Salt Lake and the Army outposts that sought to protect them. Fort Laramie just outside of Guernsey, WY  was one such outpost and on the trail, it is located at the one third point. The wagon trains had traveled over difficult land to get this far, but it the next two thirds was much worse.

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The enlisted men’s quarters.

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The camp commander’s home (complete with running water, the only home in camp so equipped) and the remains of the some of the officer’s quarters.

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And after a hard day in camp, we repair to the local watering hole for some Sarsaparilla and stories. In fact, the bartender was kind enough to point us to some sights that we might have otherwise missed.

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Thanks to him we took an off the beaten path road and found the grave headstone of Mary Elizabeth Homsley. In 1852 she and her family were on the Oregon Trail when their wagon over turned and she was killed. Her family buried her over looking the Platte river. Her grave and marker went unnoticed until 1925 when 2 cowboys discovered it. A year later a concrete marker was built encasing the original headstone and preserving it.

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He also described how to find a site where the original Oregon, Mormon, California and Pony Express Trails were preserved. The trail had so many wagons pass over it that an indentation often a foot or two deep was worn into the ground. There is a trail preservation society that is currently trying to mark and preserve as much of the original trails as possible.

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Here’s another example of the wagon train indentation, only this time they are carved in rock. At the peak of the Trail’s use, 70,000 wagons a year passed this way.

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And to round out this days adventure, we stopped at Register Cliff. This is about the one third mark of the total distance most wagon trains would travel. They’ve just left Ft. Laramie and the most difficult part of the journey is about to begin. Now these pioneers must pass through the mountains before the first snowfall or most likely they will perish. They carved their names in this cliff to let those yet to come know that they had made it this far.

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Also Swifts, little birds that are so fast we could never get a clear picture of them, liked this cliff too. But since the nests weren’t moving we were able to photograph them.

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On the way back to Wheatland from Guernsey we spotted some coal trains traveling through the switching yard. We read that the typical coal train in these parts is one mile long. That’s a lotta coal.

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EJ has a soft heart for little critters and the squirrels around our campsite were no exception. They were well fed during our stay.

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While at Wheatland we discovered Geocaching. This is where someone hides a small container or patch in a deviously clever place and then notes the location on the Geocaching website with a set of Lat Long coordinates and maybe a clue. Then using these coordinates you try to find the object. There were 5 hidden in Wheatland and we found three of them. Not bad for first timers.

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July Fourth has arrived and we are still here. The linger longer approach has taken hold. We decided to stay through the Holiday weekend to avoid traffic and trying to find another place to stay.

For the last 2 or 3 nights, Lewis Park, the park we’re staying in, has been a focal point for young folks setting off their fireworks. When we inquired at the visitor center, we were told all the 4th festivities, including fireworks, took place in Guernsey and that Wheatland would have no fireworks displays. We really expected Lewis Park to be crowded and noisy on the 4th, but we were surprised. It was oddly quiet. Maybe everybody went to Guernsey.

Our plan today is to go where the festivities were and soak in the local culture. We arrived in Guernsey just in time to miss the parade, but the car show was in full swing.

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There was even a bagpipe band.

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We had heard that there was some old silver mining ruins around here so we went exploring. Our journey ended at Hartville a tiny little town that is the oldest incorporated continuously inhabited town in Wyoming. And we found the remains of a mining operation.

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Once back in Wheatland we decided to sit outside and enjoy the evening. There was the occasional firework going off, but obviously local individual efforts. Then at 8:30, about a mile away, somebody started shooting off the big stuff. I mean the kinda stuff that rattles your shirt when it explodes. The fireworks display was pretty impressive and it lasted one and a half hours. It turns out the county fairgrounds put on this display and it seemed like hardly anyone knew about it. Anyway, it was a great way to end the day.

The next morning we decided to drive to Douglas, Wyoming. It’s around sixty miles away and we had considered moving our camp there since it’s in the direction we’ll eventually be moving. But we couldn’t find any campgrounds that met our criteria. So the Element gets the nod and off we go.

Our first stop was the Fairgrounds in Douglas to check out their campground, but it was all out in the open, no shade or trees. In other words there was nothing there that would make us want to hang out for a few days.

So we moved on the the visitors center where we got introduced to the Jackalope legend.

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The visitors center was also home to a railroad museum. Over the years the State of Wyoming came into possession of these units and  between 1962 and 1993 transferred ownership to the city of Douglas. The workmanship in some of these units is amazing. We liked the leather bar in the dining car.

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EJ also found a museum in Douglas that dealt with Pioneer living. Out front was a bronze statue of a jack rabbit running with a pair of elk.

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And some early forms of transportation.

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And Frank thinks he found an early RV.

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Sometimes EJ thinks Frank relies on the GPS too much. His opinion is it will always get you were you’re going, maybe just not in the most efficient method. Besides that’s what makes traveling an adventure, right?

For our next destination, EJ had plotted a route involving interstates and paved roads. Frank decided to follow the GPS. After thirty miles or so of gorgeous countryside and not so smooth dirt roads, we arrived at Ayers Natural Bridge.

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This is a rock formation that has been worn away by water until it forms a span over the water, in this case the La Prele Creek. This park is considered to be one of Wyoming’s first tourist attractions. There is also the remains of an old power house which generated electricity from the La Prele to pump water from the North Platte River which is 12 miles away as the crow flies. (Why didn’t they just use the North Platte to generate the electricity they needed for the water pumps?).

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We took EJ’s route back.

Sorry for the long post, but for such a small town (population 3,248), there was a lot to see and do around Wheatland, Wyoming. We did lots of walking while here. Town was only a mile and we found a bakery/deli we visited twice and a coffee shop we made daily trips to. Not doing real well at weaning ourselves off of the lattés.

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We have however gotten really good at the linger longer effect !!

Friday, June 28, 2013

Loveland Repairs

DM RV and Loveland RV Resort, Loveland, Colorado – June 24 through June 28, 2013

The appointment in Loveland at DM RV to get our air conditioning unit repaired has not necessarily dictated our schedule over the last few weeks but has definitely influenced it. We might have lingered longer in Frisco or RMNP, but need to get this taken care of.

We discovered we had a problem several weeks ago in Salida, Colorado but since we were still experiencing cooler temperatures we could do without it. Besides, we’ve been camping without services all this time and would have had to run the generator if we needed to cool down.

Our air conditioning system has two compressors in it, one for just a little cooling and two for a lot of cooling (tech speak). Our problem was that as long as we only needed a little cooling, it was fine. When we needed a lot of cooling it would run for about 5 minutes and then just quit. Nada! So Frank got the unit manual online and proceeded to run all the diagnostics he could with the tools and instruments he had available and narrowed down the potential problem list to an outdoor fan motor and a freeze probe. He also consulted with folks at www.IRV2.com and got their opinions. Based on all this we identified DM RV of Loveland as the best and closest place to get the air conditioning fixed.

So early in the morning we left Timber Creek campground in the RMNP and proceeded east on highway 34 (Trail Ridge Road), a twisty, windy, steep road headed towards Estes Park. Our strategy was to leave early enough that we would beat all of the “looky lou’s” who stop in the middle of the road and back up traffic to take pictures of wildlife. This is in spite of signs specifically forbidding stopping in the roadway.

Except for being stopped by a rockslide and to to let a Marmot cross the road our plan worked out pretty well. We still can’t get over the feeling of being on top of the world.
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As a result we ended up in Estes Park at about 9:30am, just in time for breakfast before we walked around downtown where Frank saw a sign in a jeweler’s window that he thought quite clever.

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By 4pm we had arrived at DM RV (The name DM stands for Don and Mary Ann). After a few minutes they were ready for us and we moved into the spot where we would spend the night with a 30 amp electric hookup.

The next morning, bright and early, they began testing the AC unit to determine what was wrong with it. I was impressed that they spent quit a bit of time on the phone with the factory to verify suspected problems. The final verdict? Not only was the outdoor fan motor bad, but so was the indoor fan motor. As precautionary measures we asked them to replace a bearing and the freeze probe as well. BUT (you notice the big but?) they didn’t have those parts in stock and had to order them from Wichita, Kansas. We were assured the parts would arrive on Thursday. So they buttoned everything up and we proceeded on over to Loveland RV Resort to see if they had a spot for us for two nights.

We went by Walmart, checked out the outlet stores and saw the movie “Now You See Them” with Michael Caine and Morgan Freeman. It’s a well acted movie with a surprise twist at the end. See it if you can.

So Wednesday was a free day for us.  Time to catch up on some chores, laundry and Frank investigates an LP gas smell that EJ has detected. Frank’s “smeller” is not as good as EJ’s so it hasn’t bothered him. A leak is detected under the coach in a hard to reach spot but it appears to be a loose connection. Ah, a little tightening and we’ll be good to go. Wrong! Once tightened the gas leak is worse. Uhoh!

A rerouting of gas pipes including new valves is in order to isolate the leak so we can continue to use the refrigerator. At least Frank got a brand new aluminum pipe wrench out of this debacle.

We also asked to stay one more night at the RV park and pay in advance. The place has had a slow but steady trickle of new arrivals and we want to make sure we have a place to stay and plug in because it is hot!

Thursday morning we’re back at DM RV where they start removing the AC from Big Guy. Frank also informs them of the gas leak and they agree to fix it. Here’s the big hole where the AC unit used to be.
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The unit sitting on the lift dolly in the shop.
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And the condenser fan compartment which is filthy because there is no way to clean it without removing the AC unit.
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Well the anticipated 2pm UPS delivery time comes and goes and no new motors have arrived. There is no way we can spend the night in Big Guy without AC in these temperatures. It was running 99 degrees inside BG. Conversations with the owner results in us being furnished a room at the local Best Western.

Much work ensues with EJ getting us and the cats ready to move out of Big Guy for the night and Frank cajoling the RV park into changing our reservation to Friday night. Seems their computer system doesn’t allow them to move a reservation but they finally figured out a way to comp us a night so it all worked out.


So we loaded the cats into the Element and headed for Best Western.
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Once in the room, both cats scattered and looked for hiding places. EJ used pillows to stuff all the potential cat hiding places she could find. Finally Mocha and Taz decided that the best place to be was back in the cat house. Taz is being pretty cool about it all, but as you can see Mocha is stilled weirded out by the relocation.
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We built steps out of drawers so Taz could sleep in bed with us as is her habit. Her arthritis limits her ability to jump so we try to make things easy for her when possible.

Friday morning Mocha woke us up with her yowling, demanding her breakfast. Once fed she quieted down somewhat but was still fairly vocal with her displeasure at being relocated. So we turned up the TV volume while we went to eat.  We enjoyed the free breakfast at the motel. Scrambled eggs, sausage patties, waffles, and biscuits with sausage gravy were all consumed. We arranged for a late checkout to give DM RV as much time as possible to finish up with Big Guy before we had to reoccupy him.

Yesterday Frank had also told the owner that they hadn’t even looked at the gas leak while they were in limbo waiting for the motors to arrive. So right after breakfast he went over to switch the refrigerator to electric and they were just beginning to work on repairing the leak.

We drug our feet as long as possible keeping the cats in the air conditioned car since it was in the 90’s.

Finally, after lunch we drove back to DM RV to check on progress. Turns out they had met the UPS truck somewhere on it’s route earlier this morning to intercept the shipment. This meant they didn’t have to wait until the normal 2PM UPS arrival time to start the AC repairs. Finally around 3:30 everything was done and we were able to turn on the AC in Big Guy again. We let it run for about an hour and half before we left to make sure the problem was fixed. And the gas leak? Yup, cracked pipe. And when Frank tightened it, it only made the crack bigger.
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But the Loveland adventure isn’t over yet. Once we were satisfied with the repairs and had paid the bill ($$$) we moved Big Guy back to Loveland RV Resort. We were back in our old spot #189 when we noticed the voltage inside kept dropping. We were in the older neglected area of the park on a 30 amp connection. After just paying big bucks for repairs we didn’t want to jeopardize our investment so we asked and got permission to move to a site with adequate voltage.

After we just got settled in the new spot the skies got dark as a storm was rapidly approaching. And then the downpour began. Only it wasn’t rain. That’s right, it was hail.
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By the time it ended it was too dark to see if there was any damage.

Since Big Guy did spend almost 2 days in plus 90 degree we figured some things must have suffered.  We  did find that several things in BG didn’t take the heat real well, especially the chocolate mints! I’m sure we will find other things as we get them out.

The next morning revealed that the hail hadn’t caused any damage but had knocked a lot of leaves out of the cotton wood trees and even knocked down a few branches.

We are glad to get away and continue our northwestern trek. We hope this will be the worst of our surprises along the way.

Sunday, June 23, 2013

Rocky Mountain National Park

Timber Creek Campground, Rocky Mountain National Park – June 18 through June 23, 2013

We are sad and excited at the same time to be leaving Frisco. It’s an area where it would be easy to spend a summer but we’re eager to move on to RMNP and explore it. We have an appointment in Loveland, CO on June 25 to get the A/C worked on, so we will only have a week to take it all in.

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When we rolled into Timber Creek Campground it was much more crowded than we expected. Timber Creek is on the far west side of RMNP and is definitely not as convenient to the Denver metropolis as is Estes Park. Plus it has no hook ups so we thought it would not be as popular. However, with the help of the campground host we moved into the last remaining spot that could accommodate our size.

When we pulled in we fired up the generator because we had run the batteries down pretty low before we left Frisco and like to get them up to at least 90 percent of full charge for the night. A fellow in an Airstream trailer right next to us took issue with this and we explained it would be about an hour before we shut it down. Well he didn’t like it and moved. The camp host came over and apologized for Airstream’s behavior and said we were fine, not to worry about it. Besides it was in the time window campers were allowed to run their generators.

So we thanked him, Jep was his name, and asked if we could have Airstream’s spot because it was better than ours. He said sure and we stayed in it for the duration of our visit. Here’s a view of Timber Creek after it cleared out a little.

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This time we really did have wildlife roaming through the campground.

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The next day we decided to drive to all the visitor centers to get current information and to get our National Park Passport Stamps. The Big Meadow Fire has several of the hiking trails closed. We also hoped we would be smart and beat the Denver crowds which we anticipated would be arriving later in the week.

The Trail Ridge Road goes from one side of the park to the other and is a pretty exciting ride. It has lots of banked switchbacks, sweeping curves, shear drop offs (w/o guard rails) and altitude changes from 8,900’ to 12,000’.  This is the shortest route to Loveland, so we wanted to see if Big Guy could make it.

We couldn’t resist stopping at many of the pullouts along the way. There were Elk and Moose all along the road and the views made you feel like you were on top of the world. There was still plenty of snow on the Alpine Tundra and the altitude and cold temps made for some challenging short hikes.

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After visiting 4 visitor centers (missed the 5th one because it was being remodeled) we returned to Big Guy enduring delays caused by Elk and Moose blocks along the way.

This old VW camper actually made the trip from Austin, Texas. We don’t know how the passengers survived the 100+ degree Texas heat. They were camped next to us for a couple of nights. Quite a few people stopped by to admire this old bus. The windshield actually opens out for ventilation.

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Rejuvenated for another day, we headed out for a walk along the Colorado River. We thought it would just be a simple uneventful stroll next to the water. Surprise! EJ spotted this moose and her baby hiding in the trees.

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Frank gazing out over the river. And of course we ran into another moose on the way back to the car.

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Another hike took us to the Holzwarth Ranch also known as the Never Summer Ranch because the snow never melts off the mountains in the background. John Holzwarth was a German immigrant and a saloon keeper in Denver until prohibition shut him down. In 1917 he moved his family to Never Summer Ranch where he invited his friends to come visit. He turned it into a trout fishing lodge then dude ranch in the 1920’s. He sold it in 1973 at which time it was restored to it’s 1920 condition which was considered to be it’s prime.

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On another day we decided to challenge ourselves and attempt the trail to Lulu City, an old mining area. It was a good hike and we got to see some ruins and watch the Yellow Bellied Marmots sun bathing on the rocks. We also came across some young Big Horn Sheep and another momma moose and her baby.

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We made several trips into Grand Lake. It is a quaint little town about 10 miles from the campground. Several good restaurants and coffee shop. On one of our walks around town Frank spotted this Amphicar and we caught it just as it was firing up to enter the lake. Too cool.

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Unfortunately it is time to say goodbye to RMNP. We have truly enjoyed the wonder of nature this park encompasses. The weather has been perfect and we are not looking forward to the high temps in Loveland, especially w/o the air conditioning. Hopefully it will be a quick fix and we can get back to our adventure. Looks like the girls are ready to go.

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